In recent years, cosmetic raw materials with repair effect have attracted much attention in the industry. After proteins, active peptides, amino acids and other repair components, biological polysaccharides have become a new hotspot in application. β- Glucan is a kind of macromolecular biological polysaccharide with various biological activities. This paper will introduce the research progress of its efficacy and application.
β- Dextran, also known as dextran, is passed by D-glucose monomer β- Polysaccharides linked by glycosidic bonds are widely found in microorganisms and plants, such as bacteria, yeast, mushrooms, seaweed and grains. β- Glucan is a kind of dietary fiber with high value, which has been widely used in the fields of medicine, food and cosmetics.
Nowadays, many skin care products on the market mainly contain oat extract and yeast extract, and most of their effective ingredients are β- Dextran. β- Glucan has multiple skin care effects, and its moisturizing effect is good. It is used frequently in moisturizers of restorative products. At present, most contain β- The commercial products of dextran are positioned as medium and high-end products or products for special groups (such as skin care products for infants or pregnant women), which also reflects β- Glucan plays an important role in the field of functional raw materials.
In 1941, Dr. pillemer and others first discovered dextran. In the 1960s, Dr. DIL uzio of Tulane University in the United States confirmed that the substance was a polysaccharide, i.e β- Glucan was isolated from baker's yeast. Since then, the research of this component in the field of cellular immunity has been awarded the Nobel Prize in medicine for two consecutive years. In the 21st century, β- The application of glucan in clinical skin repair and cosmetics has attracted more and more attention.
A variety of functions have been excavated
β- Glucan plays the role of moisturizer and skin conditioner in cosmetics. It has many biological activities, such as moisturizing, repairing, delaying aging and so on.
Moisturizing has always been the top priority of skin care, and the moisture content of stratum corneum is an important factor affecting the moisturizing ability of skin. Unlike most moisturizers, β- Dextran has good film-forming property, which can reduce the evaporation of water on the skin surface, diffuse water from the basal tissue to the stratum corneum, and induce further hydration of the stratum corneum, so as to play a moisturizing effect.
In terms of skin repair, the study found that, β- Glucan plays an important role in the process of immunity and cell repair. Clinical studies have shown that, β- Glucan has significant anti-inflammatory and anti allergic activities, and the concentration is 0.2% β- Dextran has the same anti-inflammatory effect as 1.0% hydrocortisone. β- Glucan can also improve the recovery function of damaged skin and accelerate skin wound healing. Therefore, it is often used in wound care and repair products.
In addition, β- Glucan can also effectively remove free radicals and resist the damage of ultraviolet rays to the skin, so as to play multiple effects such as sunscreen and anti-aging. At the same time, it has good percutaneous penetration function. The researchers have a good understanding of the concentration of 0.5% β- The penetration of dextran solution in human abdomen was studied, and it was found that dextran with large molecular weight β- Glucan can still enter the epidermis and dermis through the intercellular space, which provides a new choice for non injectable skin wrinkle reduction.
New technology makes up for the shortcomings of traditional applications
although β- Dextran has good repair effect, but there are still problems in its formulation application. conventional β- Glucan is mainly extracted from oats, mushrooms, yeast and other substances. Among them, yeast glucan has the strongest biological activity, but its effective content is low and it is difficult to be compatible. It can not effectively penetrate into the skin and exert its physiological activity, resulting in a great reduction in the actual effect, which restricts it to a certain extent β- The further development of glucan in the field of cosmetics.
In the context of the above restrictions, β- The processing method of dextran has been continuously upgraded. For example, by introducing appropriate groups to modify its chemical structure, it can effectively improve the β- The water solubility of glucan, and then enhance its biological activity. Carboxymethylated yeast glucan (CMG) is a carboxymethylated derivative of yeast glucan. Some researchers have tested its moisturizing performance, skin anti irritation and skin texture improvement. The results show that the water solubility of the structurally modified yeast glucan has been significantly improved, the water absorption and moisturizing capacity have been significantly enhanced, and it has good anti sensitivity and anti wrinkle effects. However, chemical modification will inevitably introduce some impurities, which can not ensure the safety and purity of the components, so it is not the best choice.
In addition, there is a new type β- Glucan is obtained by biological fermentation of salt tolerant Agrobacterium zx09. Due to its natural and unmodified stable chemical structure, good water solubility, single component and high purity, this new type of glucan β- Glucan has relatively higher biological activity and is superior to ordinary sources in moisturizing, repairing and safety β- Dextran.
At present, carboxymethylation modification and microbial transformation have been widely used in the production of cosmetics industry, effectively making up for the traditional β- Dextran application short board, β- The application scope of dextran has been further expanded.